The picture below shows the type of horseshoe court I typically use. It is relatively simple to manufacture and is quite durable. The nice thing about this design is because the stake is not mounted in cement the stake will absorb some of the shock of the horseshoe. Allows your horseshoes to last longer, less bounce-offs and typically less noise.

The design consists of a 1 inch diameter CRS Steel Stake installed into a 8" by 8" treated lumber (railroad tie works good) The hole drilled into the block is slightly smaller than the stake itself making a nice tight fit when driving it in. The metal plate shown that is installed on top of block helps resist the hole in the block from becoming enlarged from the constant pounding of the horseshoe (nice idea works good but not mandatory)

Need some stakes we generally keep a couple sets in stock. Another good source for pegs is a farm implement dealer or local steel supplier (goggle works great to find one near you) . Just tell them you are looking for 1 inch diameter cold rolled steel.

The 8" by 8" treated lumber should be at least 2ft long but 4ft will make it even more stable.

Patio stones work great for a pitching platform 24' by 36" (it will take 2 per platform)

When installing new courts try to find a dry flat area

To avoid sun in your eyes install courts North/South

Watch out for over-hanging trees , You need at least 12 ft of un-obstructed height.

If you live in a windy location, try to locate your pits in an area which might offer some shelter from the wind.

For the back board I used two 4" by 4" fence post stakes, good and strong, Don,t make your back-board too high or you will hit it with your back swing.

Even if you use sand I suggest covering your pits to keep your local cats from using them as litter boxes. If you do use sand and most people do 6inches of depth can be increased to 8"